Okay, we've finished the photo shoot and you're ready to pick one. Now what? What about retouching and printing?

If  we’ve shot digitally, then I’ve given you a DVD with all the photos.  Basically, take ‘em home, load them up on your computer, and wade through.  Narrow it down to your top picks, get more opinions if you like, and pick the top few. 

Raw and jpg.  Usually, I shoot two formats: raw and jpg.  You’ll see duplicates on the disk, with subtle differences.  The raw format will be more saturated, richer.  That’s because the raw format actually has more information; it’s a bigger file.  Also, the raw format is better for photoshopping, and that’s why I give you both formats.  If you need to do some work, raw has more information and is easier to manipulate. 

Your Monitor vs. Mine.  One thing to keep in mind is that the same pictures can look different on different monitors.  That’s because monitors are calibrated differently.  Sometime way back when you got your computer, you probably set the monitor so that you liked the picture brightness, sharpness, color or tint (just like you’re tv).  Well, in that instant, you calibrated your monitor.  And the likelihood that what you set it at is the same as what I set it at, or what the printer will set it at, is very low.

Also know that IBM-type computers and Macs are calibrated differently, so pictures on a Mac usually look brighter than on a PC.

Now, what I’ve done is set my monitor to the most standard setting, so what it looks on my monitor is what it should look like on a standard PC, and is pretty much what the printer is setting it at.  Meaning that what it looks like on my monitor and the printer’s monitor should be about the same.  Also, most good labs will print to skin tone.  So, in theory, you should be okay.  But know that in between, there can be some differences. 

Photoshopping.  You may wish to get some photoshop done.  I charge very reasonable rates for the photoshop, but you are welcome to take it to someone else if you’d like. 

Printing.  Here’s where some of the advantage of digital really kicks in.  Once you’ve picked a shot and want to get it printed, copy it onto a disk, take it to the printer, and you’re done.  Or even better, you can email it.  And that’s it!

Other Thoughts.  Once you’ve picked your shot, there are a few decisions to make – to crop or not to crop, horizontal or vertical, borders, and where to put your name.  But that’s all fairly straighforward.  If you haven’t done this before, walk it into a printer’s office, and they’ll go over it with you. 

Selecting A Print – The Film Process

If we’ve shot film, which honestly, doesn’t happen often these days, then you’ll get a proof sheet.  If you haven't done this before, take a look at your proofs through a loop.  You can buy one at most camera stores, or, when you to to get them printed, the lab will provide you with a loop while you are there. 

I recommend that you get several 3x5 or 4x6 prints of shots that you like on the proof sheet before printing a full 8x10.  Most labs charge $1.50-2.50 for these prints.  Once you have a set selected, you want to get 8x10s.  You’ll be asked, what paper do you you’re your 8x10 printed on?  The answer is, fiber-based paper is the most durable, but RC can also work equally well. 

Photographic Labs

There are several very good photographic labs that can develop your print for you.  I suggest the following:

Argentum. 6550 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, CA 90028, (323) 461-2775, www.argentum.com. I actually haven't used Argentum, but several of my photographer friends use them and swear by them.

Graytone. 726 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, CA 90038, (323) 467-4500, www.graytone.com. Very good and reasonably priced.

Photo Impact. 931 N. Citrus Ave., Hollywood, CA 90038, (323) 461-0141; also 3015 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica, CA 90405, (310) 399-9800, www.photoimpactonline.com. Very good with locations in Hollywood and Westside. A little pricier than average.

Lithos

For lithos, I suggest the following.  If you choose litho, be very careful who you go to.  Many shops are still using older technology with a high degree of degradation from photo master to litho.  Lithos should run you about $80 for 300, about $125-150 for 500. 

Reproductions.  3499 Cahuenga Blvd West.  Los Angeles, CA 90068.  (323) 945-8595, www.reproductions.com. People love their stuff, and I’ve used them as well for many years.

Bunker. 957 N. Cole Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90038, (323) 463-1070, www.bunkerla.com. I actually don't use Bunker, but they seem to recommended by lots of modeling agencies for zed cards. Check it out, I would say.

Photos

     Just in case you're haven't done this before, these shops shoot a 8x10 negative of the master that you printed at the lab.  Then they use the negative to make photos, which run about $0.50 to $0.80 per photo. 

Producers and Quantity Photo.  6660 Santa Monica Blvd, Hollywood, CA 90038, (323) 467-6178, www.pqphoto.com.   Solid quality and a reasonable price. 

Duplicate Photo.  6660 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-7544.  Also very good.